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Holding up the finished mat, spiral and chevron patterns in teal, tan and pink

Ambae

Traditional Mat Weaving on Ambae

December 2006

Pandanus mats are important forms of material culture on Ambae and elsewhere in Vanuatu. They may be used as clothing, household furnishings, ceremonial objects, and valued items of customary exchange. Their size, fineness, decoration, and value vary according to their intended purpose.

Women traditionally prepare and plait dried pandanus leaves to create an undyed mat, sometimes described as a “white mat.” In the process documented on Ambae in 2006, the completed mat was wrapped tightly around a pole. Stencils cut from the outer sheath of a banana plant were placed over the rolled mat and secured with plant-fibre bindings to create the decorative pattern.

The wrapped mat was then lowered into a long metal trough containing dye and water heated over a fire. Both plant-based and commercially produced dyes could be used. After the desired color developed, the bindings and stencils were removed, revealing the contrasting design. The mat was then unrolled, dried, and prepared for use.

Mats form part of customary ceremonies and exchanges associated with marriage, death, social relationships, and systems of rank. Their production preserves specialized knowledge of pandanus preparation, plaiting, stencil cutting, dyeing, and pattern design.

Hands lashing fibre cord around a mat rolled on a pole, pale stencils beneath
Woman in a blue floral dress pulling the binding cord tight around the rolled mat
Black cords lashed in tight rows across the surface of a rolled pale mat
Braided cords wound over notched stencil strips laid on plaited pandanus
Cord-bound mat over a dark trough of dye, smoke drifting across it
Steam rising off the wet, cord-wrapped roll of matting
Unwinding black cord from the mat, now dyed teal with red bands showing
Fingers spread over teal-dyed plaiting where the stencils left pale and pink markings
A hand steadying the dyed roll, its cut fringe curling at the edges
Two women lifting the unwrapped teal mat upright in a garden clearing
Holding up the finished mat, spiral and chevron patterns in teal, tan and pink
Finished mat held stretched out, spiral motifs banded with fern-like strokes
Panel of a dyed mat patterned with circular sunburst motifs and striped bands
Dried pandanus strips being plaited into an undyed mat

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